Discovering Uzès: A Gem in Southern France

Have you ever experienced the real France?

I’m not talking about the sidewalk cafes of Paris, the Eiffel Tower, or candy-coloured pastries stacked prettily in a window. What I’m referring to is the baguette-in-a-handbag-on-the-way-home-from-the-markets kind of France, usually found in tiny towns in the countryside.

Uzes French Blue Window

And one town in particular, tucked into the gorgeous scenery of Southern France, is truly the epitome of authentic French life.

The town is Uzès, and it’s a little slice of picturesque perfection in France’s Gard region.

Town of Uzes Southern France

Arriving in Uzès in the afternoon heat, I wound my way through the tiny streets to find Hotel Entraigues, a spectacular newly-refurbished boutique hotel in the heart of town. The temperatures outside were soaring, but the hotel was an oasis of cool and calm; the perfect base for exploring the gorgeous town it calls home.

Hotel Entraigues Uzes Linen

Hotel Entraigues Uzes Bathroom

Hotel Entraigues Uzes Exterior

The rooms are minimalist without being stark, and the beds are so unbelievably comfortable that I wasn’t sure how I would get up in the morning.

I had a shower to refresh after a hot day of canoeing and strolling (but with only a tiny patch of sunburn to show for it – yay!), and then made my way downstairs to the hotel restaurant. I enjoyed an exceptional meal of bouillabaise (a kind of fish stew that’s a local specialty in Southern France) that was laden with delicate saffron, accompanied by a glass of local white wine and a pineappley dessert.

Hotel Entraigues Uzes

It was the perfect end to a pretty incredible day (check out more about Pont du Gard and canoeing along the Gardon River).

I’d set my alarm early to see the sunrise, although when the sound of Beyoncé woke me I seriously considered turning it off and going back to my gloriously comfortable bed. Feather pillows: I need these in my life. I knew the views would be worth it though, so I pulled the curtains open for the light to shock me from my drowsy state, and dragged myself up the stairs to the hotel’s roof terrace.

Hotel Entraigues Uzes France

I’d made the right decision: the colours were amazing, and the view across the terra cotta tiles and deep green trees was breathtaking!

Hotel Entraigues Uzes Terrace

Tour Fenestrelle Uzes Sunrise

Sunrise Uzes France

Sunrise Uzes Southern France

After taking a moment to gaze at the view, and snap pictures of the medieval Fenestrelle Tower across the road, I desperately needed coffee. Stopping at the restaurant again, I chatted to the lady who kindly prepared my caffeine hit for the day.

I could have chatted to her all day – she was fascinating – but it was market day in Uzès, and I wanted to catch it before the crowds arrived.

Market day in Uzès

Farmers Market Uzes France

Market Day Uzes France

This weekly Saturday event sees producers and artisans filling the town square, called the place aux Herbes, and lining the surrounding streets, visited by the locals and people from villages for miles around.

Linen Market Day Uzes

There’s a lot of soap, lavender and hats for sale, but that’s not all. I bought a jar of bee pollen for €5.50 (it’s something like £15 in health food shops in the UK, although I have no idea what it does) and some pastries, which I munched on happily as I walked.

Uzes Alley Southern France

Tour Fenestrelle From Below Uzes

Doorway Uzes France

It was thankfully quite cool in the morning, as the hot sun hadn’t moved high enough to peek over the city’s limestone buildings yet. I strolled down narrow lanes and admired the pastel-coloured doors and windows adorned with sweet-smelling roses.

As I took a photo of a cute antique shop, I was schooled in etiquette by a stern Frenchman who reminded me a little of my equally stern Belgian Grandpa.

Apparently it’s rude in France to take a photo without asking permission (although I’ve been to France countless times and this is the first I’ve heard of it). “Désolé, Monsieur,” I smiled, and he relented.

Antique Store Uzes France

Things to see and do in Uzès

Casually strolling through the town’s streets is the main attraction of Uzès, but there are a few other sights that visitors can explore.

The medieval Duke’s Castle is a walled structure in the middle of the town, complete with turrets and colourfully-tiled towers. It’s a structure that could easily belong to a Disney tale – all it’s missing is a princess and a villain.

Uzes Tiled Rooftop

Uzes Southern France

Sunrise Rooftops Uzes

Visitors can explore the inside of the castle for €17, which includes access to the viewpoint at the top of the donjon (tower).

Another gorgeous view can be enjoyed from the top of the King’s Tower inside the 12th century Medieval Garden. You’ll find the peaceful garden behind a colourful door that’s hidden at the end of a narrow stone passageway – and entry is just €6.

Green Alleyway Uzes France

After getting lost in the winding streets of Uzès, the sun began to creep in and overtake the shadows, so I retreated to the gorgeous hotel pool, complete with brightly-coloured Acapulco chairs and an Insta-worthy view.

Tour Fenestrelle From Below Uzes

Picturesque Uzes France

Ancient Building Uzes France

Hotel Entraigues Uzes Pool

Once again I had to drag myself away, this time to pack up the car and hit the road. It was with sadness that I watched the town of Uzès grow smaller in my rearview mirror, but I have a feeling I’ll be back.

If not for the stunning scenery and rich history, then at least for this perfect bed:

Hotel Entraigues Uzes Room

I travelled to Southern France via train, first on the Eurostar to Lyon and then the TGV (a French train) to Avignon where I picked up a rental car. Train tickets are available through voyages-sncf.com.

You can also fly directly to Lyon from Birmingham, Southampton, Edinburgh and London airports.

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Discovering Uzès, a picture-perfect town in Southern France

Elle Croft

Elle Croft is a London-based travel blogger who is equally happy exploring the city she lives in as venturing to far-flung destinations. She's a firm believer in stylish travel, and will always look for a twist on the traditional. Luckily for her, London offers unusual experiences in abundance. When Elle's not travelling or blogging over at A Bird in the Hand you can usually find her, coffee in one hand and camera in another, strolling the beautiful streets of the city she calls home.

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  1. Hello Ellen- thoroughly enjoy your articles! Thank you… Wondering if you’ve been to/written about Italy. We are a group of 5 gf’s wanting to plan a trip there but we’ve such diverse requirements…cooking class or two, enology, shopping, nature, history…where should we go? I’ve suggested a villa or b&b in an area know for gastronomy, rent a couple cars & day trip from there-but where?

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